Fences are priced by the linear foot, but posts, gates and digging conditions decide whether that number makes money. This guide walks through counting the parts and the costs that are easy to miss.
The short version. Measure the fence line, count sections and posts (including ends, corners and gates), price each gate as its own line, and add removal and digging conditions.
1. Check the rules before you price
- Property line: make sure the customer knows where it is. A survey, or the plat, avoids building on the neighbor's land.
- Permits, height limits and setbacks: many towns require a permit and limit front-yard fence height.
- HOA rules: many HOAs control fence style, height and color, and need approval first.
- Call 811 before you dig. It's free, and it's the law in every state.
2. Measure and count sections
Walk the fence line and measure each straight run. Panels and sections are commonly 6 or 8 feet wide, depending on the material.
Example (illustrative): one straight 150 ft run with 8 ft sections.
| Step | Math | Result |
|---|---|---|
| Sections | 150 ÷ 8 = 18.75, round up | 19 sections |
| Line posts | sections + 1 for one straight run | 20 posts |
| Concrete | about 1 to 2 bags per post, depending on hole size | 20 to 40 bags |
Every corner, end and gate adds posts, and gate posts are usually heavier. Count each run on its own and add them up.
3. Price gates on their own
A gate takes much more time than the same width of fence: heavier posts, hinges, latch, and getting it to swing and close right. Price each gate as its own line, and double gates higher still.
4. Digging conditions and site work
- Rocky or root-filled soil can double the time per hole
- Slopes: stepping or racking panels down a hill takes extra cuts and time
- Clearing brush along the fence line
- Tearing out and hauling away the old fence and its concrete footings
5. Material notes
- Wood: pickets, rails and posts, plus fasteners. Ground-contact rated posts last longer.
- Vinyl and aluminum: usually sold as panel systems with matching posts and caps.
- Chain link: fabric by the roll, top rail, tension wire and fittings.
6. Figure the labor hours
Estimate each part, and count every person's time. Typical hours for the 150 ft run from above, with one gate.
| Task | Typical labor hours |
|---|---|
| Layout and locating marked utilities | 1 |
| Dig 20 post holes | 10 |
| Set posts in concrete | 6 |
| Hang 19 sections | 10 |
| Build and hang the gate | 3 |
| Clean up | 1 |
| Total | 31 hours |
Labor cost = total hours × your hourly labor cost. Your hourly labor cost is the wage plus burden — payroll taxes, workers' comp and insurance. For example, a $28 wage plus 25% burden is $35 an hour. If you work alone, use the wage you pay yourself. The free labor rates by state tool shows typical wages for your trade and area.
31 hours × $35 = $1,085 in labor. In rocky ground, the digging line alone can double.
These are typical hours for a straightforward job with an experienced crew. Specialty and custom design work adds hours — for example custom or decorative designs, lattice or arched tops, steep slopes, and mixed materials. Price those as their own lines, so the customer sees what the extra work costs. Your own times are the best guide: write down how long each task takes on every job, and your estimates get sharper each time.
7. Add overhead and profit
Add materials, labor and site work, then apply your overhead and profit. The free markup and margin calculator does the math.
Tip: Write on the proposal who is responsible for the property line and the permit. If the line is wrong, moving a finished fence is expensive — make sure it isn't your cost.
See also: Trades HQ for fence contractors and Estimating Basics.